J.
Started with a brisk walk down to the riverfront. It was bloody freezing!
We looked for, and found, Cafe Du Monde, one of the 'Time Out' list of places to visit that Ian had on his bucket list itinerary. I was a bit shocked when we arrived as it was just this outside seating area with green plastic sheets pulled down to keep out the wind/rain. Looked really scruffy. It had one thing on the menu! One!! I was like - WTF??
Beignets and coffee. That's it. But they were bloody lovely. Fluffy donut batter, all the sugar in the world piled on top. Stressed over the amount of calories like, but - ah well, I can return to healthier options soon :)
Walked down to the jazz museum. Again - for me - a little disappointing (though Ian seemed much happier with it). The 'Mint' display was on the ground floor - that was quite interesting - a history of going making in New Orleans, how they transported heavy materials (little trucks), weighed them out - huge scales, amazing sight.
Second floor was jazz history exhibition. I'll leave Ian to put more detail in because I found it really boring. The section on drumming was best, showing the evolution of drum beats from marching drums during the civil war, right through to rock'n'roll'n'funk'nsoul.
(I. The jazz museum was much smaller than I'd expected but - it had Fats Domino's piano. And Dave Bartholomew's trumpet. It didn't cover anywhere near everything it could, but the bits it did cover were bloody wonderful, made me buy a Fats Domino best of in the gift shop.)
J. Ian found another record shop...
... and it was (to be fair) incredible. I was so happy for him because this was the kind of place he'd been hoping to find.
We then just walked. And walked. And walked. Following the grid system (like Manhattan, New Orleans is on a grid) through Frenchman Street, which was stunning - all the hanging plants from the balconies, everything beautifully decorated for Halloween. We also bought some stuff for dressing up.
(I. Aside - we don't really do Halloween. We don't dress up, we don't do parties. And we weren't going to now, despite being genuinely excited about being in New Orleans for it and knowing the city kind of embraces it. But Paul and Jules were definitely dressing up for it, and we were meeting them tonight. So we started looking. Then discounted the idea. Then embraced it. Then discounted it. Then thought, "Do we really want yo be the couple who went to New Orleans on Halloween and 'spectated'?" So we went for it)
J. I went all orange and black. Bought a fab mask and a feather boa (which I got later in the New Orleans equivalent of St John's market) - and little orange and black tutu - dead cute!!
Ian got a hat. He was in love with it :) - wore it all day, people were asking him if he'd made it himself, complimenting him all over the place.
(I. An insight to my psyche, in case you weren't already aware of this - I don't do hats, I think I look faintly ridiculous in them, but I set my mind on getting one for this. To the point of obsession. So I did. But. Those people who were complimenting me? I was convinced they were taking the piss. Couldn't see how they were serious about this. That probably speaks volumes about me, It's only J that manages to make me act like a normal human being.)
J. We later bought him a mask (Phantom of the opera style) and a Voodoo T-shirt, so we really felt part of the celebrations!
Went to the maddest book shop ever. Floor to ceiling, books stacked on top of each other, no rhyme or reason. Ian couldn't cope with the chaos, lasted about two minutes (I. Look, there's random and there's completely bloody un-shoppable. The retailer in me resurfaced.)
J. Had a lovely lunch in Old Nola Cookery on Bourbon. Our server was Chris, told us about the pirate bar right down the end of Bourbon, past the gay quarter.
Tried again to get into the Carousel Bar at the hotel. Chocker again.
We struggled to get in anywhere to eat, everywhere was packed - we'd not thought about people eating on Halloween. Looked in loads of places; either fully booked or not what we wanted. Then we found a lovely fish place - Redfish grill on Bourbon. Had some lovely warm bread - served in a bag - to start. Then a nice cocktail each and both had Blackened Redfish with small potato cubes, mushrooms, onion, peas in a butter style sauce, topped with crabmeat. Really delicious. Bread pudding with hot caramel to share for dessert.
We walked up to 'the pirate bar' - Lafitte's, apparently the oldest bar in New Orleans. Met Paul and Jules there as they'd discovered it themselves after only arriving that afternoon. Dark, crowded, great atmosphere, fairy lights and candles everywhere. Couldn't hear a bloody thing. Paul and Jules drinking Hurricanes. Keith and Kev had both messaged us saying 'don't drink the Hurricanes'
I. I had a Hurricane. Just the one. Didn't see the problem with it. Even on top of something that had had whisky in it and... something else I forget. I was just chuffed to actually get involved with Halloween, to buy the hat and the mask and the t-shirt and just to be out and part of the whole thing. For someone (me) who doesn't generally do 'joining in', it was a whole new experience. Might stop looking askance at enjoyment from now on. Is this what 60 is? Becoming reasonable?
J. On the whole, a very wonderful day.
It's 7.01am. The sun's coming up. Apparently going to be very sunny here today. But freezing. Ian snoring next to me, I'm knackered now 😂 But I've enjoyed recalling a wonderful busy day in New Orleans. Our final full day lies ahead of us. Tomorrow. (or Today, where we are now)
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