On The Road (with apologies to Jack Kerouac)

On the 23rd of October ten years ago, I was supposed to write here for the final time. I was writing up until my 50th birthday then stopping. Job done. The task I'd set myself at the start of 2013 complete. Obviously that didn't happen. I enjoyed it too much, had too much to say.

But, in time, it dwindled. I didn't feel the need to write here as I had so many other things to write elsewhere -

- aside: I intended to write a 'What Happened Next' piece here for my 60th. Started it, semi-planned it, was going to talk about everything that had happened after the blog/partly because of the blog. But other things came up and I wasn't convinced people would be that interested. So I didn't.

And none of that is the point. None of it's the reason I'm back here for this one. 

J's cousin, Paula, bought us a book: a notebook, lined empty pages and a pocket at the back for memorabilia (of the paper kind, snow globes would have been an issue), nicely bound, imprinted on the front with 'The Sammo's Travel Journal'. Designed to capture all those moments you have when travelling, which if not captured, become vague. 

It's been a fantastic gift. Because that journey we've just experienced? You wouldn't want any of that to fade.

So, as we moved from Manchester to Heathrow to Nashville on the day after my birthday, to Memphis, to New Orleans and back again, we took the time - in hotel rooms, bars, Amtrak trains - to note everything we'd done, seen, heard, felt.

This, mostly unexpurgated and unedited, is that. 

Could be a long one. Might do a day at a time to make it easier to read. And easier to write.

This is us in America, having the holiday of a lifetime. If it looks like this then it's Ian speaking. And it's probably very much in order and dealing with facts. If it's in italics, then it's J. And probably much more to do with feelings and emotions. And that's why everybody loves J the best :)

GETTING THERE 24.10.23

Manchester to Heathrow to Nashville. Made a new mate on the plane. No idea what her name was. Didn't cath it, but then she didn't throw it. Her dad grew up in Memphis on the same projects as Elvis. Bit younger so he was just someone who was around. Her grandad was in the mob in Chicago. Probably wise that we don't know her name.

In fairness, in late 59ish, my dad went to a family party for my mum's side, in the Dingle. Found himself talking to some kind of distant relative who'd been on the merchant ships in the 20s. Jumped ship in the States, ran guns for Capone. Never found out who he was or how he was related.

Anyway. Uber from Nashville International to the Hyatt Houston House, driven by Hindi, one handed all the way, some kind of injury to his right hand. He knew far more about footy than I do. Nashville born and bred, no interest in their version of football, just loved soccer. Wanted to know how the home and away thing worked for fans, how often we got to the game, that kind of thing. Lovely bloke.

Check in and out to Lower Broad(way) and the Legends Bar. Met Kyle from Minneapolis and his mate. Sat by them at the bar, new mates within about a minute. Kyle loves country music, loves Nashville, comes here yearly.

I mean, Minneapolis is okay for music - The Hold Steady, Husker Du, The Replacements. Prince for god's sake. But Kyle's about country. He ended up getting J up to dance, asked if I minded him dancing with my wife, which was polite - tough he hadn't actually checked with J first, and she's definitely the boss. 

He told USA story about a very drunk Hank Williams and some blue paint that ran between the back of the Legends Corner and the side of the Ryman Auditorium. Couldn't hear the details. 

Songs of the night (as played by the first of many damn fine bands): Dwight Yoakam's 'Guitars, Cadillacs & Hillbilly Music' and out first hearing of 'Tennessee Whiskey', which everyone was playing everywhere; soon became the theme to the holiday.

Bed at 10. 4am in the UK, but we're trying to combat jet lag. Let's see how that goes. 

DAY ONE 25.10.23

(J)

First full day has started in Nashville. We were awake at 4.30am 😂. Long morning walk at sunrise, walked over the river, saw and heard the bells from the train coming into the station at the railroad crossing. (About as American a sound as there is)

Amazing brekkie at Sun Diner (J had Cinnamon French Toast, I went for the full Elvis PB&J toasted sandwich, with bananas. None of the ingredients should work together, are actually stunning)

Walked over the bridge across the Cumberland River, Facetimed Matty and Hannah. Was lovely.

I know the boys would love it here. We love it here. 

Next up - Johnny Cash Museum.

Which was so much more than either of us expected. All Cash's stuff, from start to finish. Luther Perkins' amp. The amp he played Folsom Prison Blues on. I was nearly in tears. It's like walking round a corner and seeing the holy grail just sitting there. 

Then. In no order. A 10:45 beer in Roberts' Western World. Buying records in Swaggie's Record Shop (Springsteen 12", album by Wichita Falls. Never heard of them, liked the hat the guy was wearing on the back)

The Country Music Hall Of Fame. They had Les Paul's actual 'Plank'. The first ever electric guitar (probably). There was an entire wall for Eric Church. Don't know anything by him, but he doesn't know anything by me, so we're even. Though I haven't just bought a six storey building on Broadway so I think he wins. We saw him the next day, outside his new joint. Had no idea who it was or why people were craning their necks round scaffolding to see him, googled the whole thing the next day. Probably should have paid more attention. But I saw the suits that the Flying Burrito Brothers wore on The Gilded Palace Of Sin, so who's really the winner? (Eric Church still)

A tour of RCA Studio B. A small room out in the city that produced so much magic. Sat in the dark, listening to Elvis singing 'Are You Lonesome Tonight' in the room where he recorded it - one last take of a song he was thoroughly hating. Wasn't supposed to touch the piano for the photo. Don't think I'm alone in ignoring that rule. 

Tea in Acme Feed and Seed - turns out cornbread is really good. Weirdly like carrot cake being served with a stew.

A disappointing beer on Teddy's rooftop bar, watching Queen fans file into the Bridgestone Arena, home of the Nashville Predators Ice Hockey team. J got a couple of Predators tops during the afternoon - one, a T-shirt with a legendary player's name on it. Neither of us know who he is but it looks cool and this is the kind of thing god invented Youtube for.

Finished the night with drinks in the legendary Tootsie's Bar, the scene of much misbehaviour from various Grand Ole Opry stars of yesteryear. A Key Lime something for J, and Apple Jack Daniels for me - J's finding my new predilection for whiskey and insistence on having to drink it in Tennessee quite disturbing as she knows I'm nowhere near grown up enough to deal with it really.

J. 

I am officially a Predators fangirl 💙😆

Loved the Acme Feed and Seed, food was absolutely delish!

The Johnny Cash Museum was absolutely AMAZING!

(Honestly?) I found the Country Music Hall Of Fame a bit too much. I was so tired and it hit me while walking round there. What do I remember?

• Elvis's gold plated Cadillac

(I'm writing this sat in a rooftop whiskey bar, looking out over the river, drinking a Margarita)

• Taylor's dress
• The old B&W films about the origins of country - bluegrass etc
• Minnie Pearl's hat

But then we went on the tour of Studio B. OMG what an experience! Moved to tears sat in the room where Elvis recorded Are You Lonesome Tonight. The guide put the lights down as he apparently recorded it in pitch black. 

Honest to god, the feeling was priceless, hairs on the back of the neck stood up moment. An unforgettable experience. 

Bed at 8.40pm. God knows what time we'll be up.

[And that's it for day one. This is definitely a day at a time thing, there's a lot of it. And if nobody reads it? Well it's always here for us :)]